Roast Chicken and Other Stories

September 3, 2007
This idiosyncratic though charming cookbook was first published in the U.K. in 1994 and became a runaway favorite with a second publication in 2006. Hopkinson, a founding chef of Londons Bibendum and a newspaper columnist, rejects the notion that a dinners merit should be judged by its number of ingredients or steps. Instead, his earthy sensibility is guided by French techniques, rich English ingredients and lots and lots of butter. Chapters are organized not by course but by Hopkinsons favorite ingredients, such as eggplant (grilled, creamed, baked and stewed in his cayenne-spiked version of the Turkish classic Imam Bayildi); leeks (in vinaigrette, in a tart crust, vichyssoise, baked with cream and mint); and tripe (Madrid-style, Lyonnaise style, deep-fried). Each chapter begins with a bit of history and often witty personal reminiscence. Hell chart the use of anchovies around the globe, quote fellow food writer Elizabeth David on the beauty of "anchoï ade" and guide readers to the best canned variety in the market. The recipes themselves are designed for the intuitive cook who can gauge a dishs doneness by its color rather than by slavish devotion to a timer. Yet Hopkinsons recipes are true winners, inspiring confidence in the kitchen and pleasure at the table with their simple, satisfying flavors. "(Sept.)" .

Starred review from August 1, 2007
Hopkinson, a former chef, is one of England's best-known food writers. This book of essays and recipes, originally published in 1994, has remained immensely popular there, and although some chefs and foodies here also know it, this is the first Americanized edition. He offers 40 essays on ingredients from anchovies to veal, along with three or more recipes for each of them. Hopkinson's style is straightforward, often opinionated, but also graceful and witty, and the recipes include both classics and more contemporary dishes such as Leeks with Cream and Mint ("This sort of dish is what marrying flavors is all about"). A few of the references to restaurants or culinary trends are slightly dated, but that is easily overlooked. Recommended for most collections.

Copyright 2007 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

August 1, 2007
In engaging short essays and appealing recipes, celebrated London chef Hopkinson illustrates how far British cuisine has progressed both in restaurants and homes since the dreary postwar days of bangers, mash, and overcooked beef. Proceeding alphabetically from anchovies through veal, Hopkinson offers his trenchant observations on the best uses for each food product. Hopkinson does not hesitate to encourage readers to plunge into uncommon edibles such as brains, grouse, and tripe. He also reveres vegetables, devoting a section to taken-for-granted items such as parsley, which he suggests turning into a bright soup. Among the fish he favors, cod stands out as especially worthy when not suffering abuse at the hands of careless cooks. Some of the foods he cites, including hake, smoked haddock, and fresh kidneys, may not be generally available in U.S. markets, but recipes have been recast to reflect American measurements.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2007, American Library Association.)