At Home in the Kitchen

January 18, 2021
Kinch—chef and owner of Manresa, with three Michelin stars, in northern California—shares in this laid-back cookbook the recipes he prepares on his days off from work. The key, Kinch writes, is that the dishes are “quick and inexpensive enough to make a handful for a party, or to prepare for yourself as snacks during the week.” Throughout, the chef is encouraging (“I don’t think cooking is difficult... it requires attention”) and isn’t stingy with tips, such as making sure to use a 12-inch or larger pan for paella and placing the gratin dish for his Belgian endive gratin on a baking sheet to prevent a mess if the cream bubbles over. Dishes are wide-ranging and take nods from various cuisines, as evidenced in recipes for Catalan-style kale cooked with raisins and pine nuts, cherry clafoutis, and jambalaya. Many options work well for entertaining, among them eggplant with black olive tapenade, and an herbed goat cheese and chorizo tartine with honey. Notable mains include a lamb tartare and oven-roasted potatoes with cod, while song suggestions for listening while cooking (such as making pesto to Aretha Franklin) reinforce the easygoing tone. This is a solid choice for readers craving quick, adventurous dishes.

March 1, 2021

What do chefs cook on their days off? Based on the recipes in this collection by James Beard Award-winning chef Kinch and food writer Fuller, they enjoy a little bit of everything. For Kinch, that involves primarily focusing on Mediterranean cuisine, while also gaining inspiration from California and New Orleans. Overall, the authors stay true to their goal of simplicity, keeping home cooks generally in mind with dishes such as soups and pastas that feature a modern mix of flavors as well as desserts and drinks that can accompany meals or stand alone. Helpful tips are sprinkled throughout and ingredient lists often include specific brand names or varieties of produce, which is useful for those wanting a little extra direction when they cook. Tips and suggestions at the beginning of each recipe will guide home cooks along; beautiful photography is a bonus. For added inspiration, each recipe is also accompanied by a musical pairing, listing a song and artist. VERDICT An approachable collection featuring plenty of suggestions for advice and inspiration. Cooks of all levels will find something to savor.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH

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