Thanksgiving

September 17, 2012
Sifton, the national editor for the New York Times and its former restaurant critic, talks turkey, as well as gravy, cranberry, side dishes, and table settings in this wonderful holiday survival guide. The author describes how to “cook Thanksgiving correctly,” as he spells out the proper way to plan the feast and includes variations on all the classic dishes. Words of wisdom include forgoing appetizers, unless those appetizers happen to be oysters. Recipes include gingered cranberry sauce, creamed brussels sprouts, six different ways to cook a turkey, and four ways to use it in leftovers. As a critic, Sifton would delight his readers by employing a mix of lush and simple imagery, plus a poet’s ear for rhythm. Of a favorite entrée at a Greenwich Village restaurant, he once wrote, “The beans were creamy and substantial, their velvet richness augmented by the plush ermine nature of the peppers.” While his book is intended to be instructional, Sifton displays glimpses of this lyricism throughout, all the while maintaining a playful good nature: “The dessert need not be extravagant. It absolutely should not be experimental. Nor should it be overly cute.”

September 15, 2012
An easy-to-read, concise, somewhat tongue-in-cheek guide for how to host the perfect Thanksgiving dinner. This simple book is a valuable tool for someone hosting Thanksgiving for the first time. New York Times national editor Sifton begins by describing the items needed to prepare a turkey. Considering varying budgets, the author gives a range of options for pans, cutting boards, knives and other kitchen equipment at different price points. He provides more than one recipe for many traditional Thanksgiving items as well, catering to differing time restrictions and cooking expertise. For example, Sifton includes four recipes for an oven-roasted turkey: "A Simple Roast Turkey," "An Even More Simple Roast Turkey," "Herb-Roasted Turkey" and "Faster Roast Turkey." The author also advises on what brands and types of ingredients to buy, how to set a table and how to use leftovers. He takes the mystery out of terms such as "brining" and "heritage turkey" and how, and if, they make a difference in the turkey's final taste. Also of note is Sifton's advice on what not to do. Thanksgiving should be appetizer-free; chocolate should be put aside in favor of classical American desserts such as apple, pumpkin and pecan pie; mashed potatoes should not have garlic or basil. Additional tips on what to serve for drinks, as well as Sifton's policy for serving oysters on Thanksgiving, will help make the entire day a better experience. His leftover recipes, which go beyond the basic turkey sandwich, will ensure that the days after Thanksgiving are filled with great culinary experiences. A brief, straightforward guide to hosting a Thanksgiving dinner without being overwhelmed.

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September 15, 2012

New York Times national editor and former restaurant critic Sifton condenses considerable Thanksgiving know-how into this slim, practical guide to the basics (e.g., The Turkey, Side Dishes, Setting the Table, Drinks & Drinking, Cleanup & Leftovers). Filled with elegant prose, humorous stories, and helpful FAQs, this collection favors simple, well-prepared dishes over trendy showstoppers. There are no appetizers or salads; Sifton believes they detract from the traditional meal. VERDICT This book has everything readers will need to host a successful Thanksgiving dinner. Rick Rodgers's Thanksgiving 101, which has detailed menus and timetables, is another good choice.

Copyright 2012 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

October 1, 2012
No national holiday preserves traditions as rigorously observed as the foods of America's Thanksgiving Day. In fact, it's impossible to imagine the fourth Thursday of November without turkey, cranberries, and pumpkin pie. Sifton, former food critic for the New York Times, sets out to find the best rendition of the time-honored Thanksgiving dinner. He's not interested in introducing some trendy new food into the feast, just in steering readers to carefully crafted versions of customary holiday favorites. Sifton quickly inventories essential kitchen equipment for the dinner. He enumerates the sorts of turkeys currently in markets and gives a handful of recipes with varying cooking techniques. A host of different stuffings and side dishes complements the bird. Traditional American desserts conclude the meal. He even details how to set a table, recognizing it as a nearly lost art in today's world. This is a good resource for any cook not already bound to fixed and inflexible Thanksgiving menus.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2012, American Library Association.)