Eventide

April 20, 2020
This hip collection from the owners of a “modern seafood shack” in Portland, Maine, strikes a breezy tone with contemporary takes on New England classics. Fish recipes include a miso-glazed cod and a char that’s salted and sugared, then paired with balls of dough that are coated in seeds and fried—the result of a happy accident in flatbread making. The authors lay out two versions of a clambake—the deluxe backyard option and the indoor variety downsized for a small kitchen, for which the authors recommend using a wok and a bamboo steamer basket. A love of Maine permeates the volume, as does a spontaneous and fun attitude: a fried oyster bun was created on the fly before the restaurant’s soft opening and has remained on the menu ever since; and perfect for feeding “a good-size crowd,” a brined then roasted giant fish tail coated in barbecue sauce can be picked apart and eaten in lettuce cups. Imagination rules: batter for savory waffles incorporates pureed scallops, and lobster with sweet potatoes is stewed in coconut milk and green curry. A brief chapter on desserts includes blueberry pie and four cookie options for ice cream sandwiches. This generous recipe collection bursts with personality.