Drink Beer, Think Beer

July 9, 2018
Holl (The American Craft Beer Cookbook), an editor at Craft Beer and Brewing magazine, shares his passion for beer making in this infectious history of the hoppy beverage. Even though this companionable guide to “the modern beer renaissance” starts off humorously declaring that the purchase of any beer—craft or corporate—is like “choosing a side in a war,” Holl takes a more diplomatic approach, speaking to consumers of all brands. He offers detailed, clearly written observations on ingredients and flavors (“no matter the ingredient used, flavorings added, or homage paid, the final result should still taste like beer”), as well as explanations on how keg draft systems work and how the acidity of a brewery’s local water can affect taste. Holl expresses some frustration with the us-versus-them anti-corporate dynamic in the craft brewing scene, though he does thrill at the excitement and sense of community that can be found in the craft movement. An antisnob who is a stickler for quality, Holl nevertheless circles back to simple, Michael Pollanish rules, like “sample everything, and then order what suits you best.” Holl’s good-natured and useful handbook offers helpful tips for the novice drinker, and topics of debate for beer connoisseurs. This is an excellent look at contemporary beer making, marketing, and consumption.

August 1, 2018
Informative overview of the economic and cultural transformations surrounding the world of beer.Craft Beer and Brewing magazine senior editor Holl (The American Craft Beer Cookbook, 2013, etc.) is a passionate advocate for beer as both libation and lifestyle. He feels fortunate to have built a career as a beer judge and critic, and he argues that beer remains misunderstood despite its acknowledged popularity. The author shows how this popularity developed over the last few decades thanks to iconoclasts like New Albion Brewing's Jack McAuliffe, who resurrected knowledge lost during Prohibition. As he writes, "a brewing culture exists in America today that not only creates and supports local drinking communities but has launched a global phenomenon." Holl first captures this as narrative: During the 1980s and '90s, the "microbrew" and "craft" categories blossomed despite pushback from corporate-controlled brewers like Budweiser and initially skeptical food-scene chroniclers. Such controversies have persisted. "It's easy," writes the author, "to criticize the 'big guys' and the 'traitors' that are no longer 'craft' or 'independent.' " Still, it's undeniable that the breadth and quality of American brewing today constitutes a renaissance. Holl writes enthusiastically about such facets of beer appreciation as the science behind the sensory experience of beer and its core ingredients (yeast, water, malt, and hops) and the varied methodologies employed by brewers to resurrect neglected forms and try radical new taste combinations. He writes perceptively about current trends, noting that such marketplace competitiveness has an unsettling side: "Chemical flavoring is having a big impact in beer these days." He also addresses the social aspects of enjoying beer, including the benefits of pub culture versus drinking at home, and some persistent issues regarding diversity and retrograde imagery in marketing; he notes his own editorial pleas for inclusiveness resulted in abuse from thin-skinned trolls online. The book is clearly written and only occasionally pedantic; this is leavened by good observations and nuggets of obscure brewing information.Will appeal to neophyte beer drinkers and foodies generally.

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October 15, 2018

Holl (The American Craft Beer Cookbook) has poured his passion, knowledge, and experience as a senior editor of Craft Beer & Brewing magazine, host of the podcast Steal This Beer, and contributor to numerous national publications into this latest work. Here, he brings together a historical background of the beverage and insight into its production, including a brief foray into the basic chemistry and the state of the beer market today. Also offered are practical notes on how to serve, pour, and drink beer (e.g., glassware, appearance, mouthfeel, etc.). The conversational tone and straightforward presentation of complex concepts help propel the text forward, but one wonders how the contrast of in-depth, enthusiast-level information and tasting basics would succeed in holding the interest of all readers, from neophytes to longtime beer hobbyists. VERDICT If you're going to purchase just one book on beer, consider this one. Its chatty, accessible narrative may tempt you to read from cover to cover.--Courtney McDonald, Univ. of Colorado Boulder Lib.

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