Baking at République

February 18, 2019
In the introduction to this charming cookbook, Manzke writes of creating her well-stocked pastry case, which “looks magical,” at her all-day L.A. café, République. Manzke has worked in kitchens since the age of seven, starting in her mother’s small restaurant in Manila, and alongside her tantalizing recipes she provides photos and detailed baking advice, such as how long to cream butter and sugar depending on the desired finished product. Most chapters provide a master recipe, then riff on it: a simple brioche dough transforms into apricot bread pudding piled high in a cast-iron pan, individual chocolate babkas, and, in a nod to s’mores, cream-filled Italian doughnuts topped with cinnamon streusel and homemade marshmallows. Presentation is stunning: diced peaches are baked in ramekins with pâte brisée domes on top, and ribbons of croissant dough are twisted into rectangular braids that form recesses for fillings of cream cheese, blood oranges, and kumquats. Though the emphasis is on sweet treats, clever savory options include parmesan churros. Manzke and her husband also co-own a chain of six cafés in Manila, and several recipes incorporate flavors from the Philippines: bibingka—glutinous rice cake—stands shoulder to shoulder with madeleines perfumed with orange blossom water. These aspirational recipes will be welcomed by home bakers looking for a challenge.

Starred review from May 1, 2019

Pastry chef Manzke's first cookbook takes bakers of all levels through traditional pastry techniques in chapters devoted to different types of breads and pastries, including brioche, pâte á choux, pâte brisée, and more. In the introduction, Manzke provides tips on which ingredients will ensure optimal results. She discusses flavors when baking and how she prefers a less sweet approach; specifically, when making something with fruit, she wants the fruit flavor to shine above all else. Manzke also shares the importance of measuring ingredients and attention to detail. The first recipe is what she calls "The Best Easiest Baked Dessert: "--nectarine and blackberry crisp, an easy recipe that allows substitution of whatever fruit you prefer or have on hand. Once readers master many of the doughs and batters, they can build on that knowledge when tackling the more advanced recipes. A chapter on basic components encompasses various recipes for jams, pastry creams, and caramel sauce. VERDICT A wonderful debut, with well-written and easy-to-understand advice. Recommended for advanced beginner to intermediate bakers.--Holly Skir, Broward Cty. Lib., FL

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