Flour Lab

Starred review from July 15, 2019
Brooklyn Bread Lab founder Leonti and Parla (coauthor, Food of the Italian South) open this immersive guide to bread baking and beyond with an inspiring salvo on the merits of milling one’s own wheat. The flavor of self-milled grains are “intense, bolder, brighter,” Leonti writes before describing the various kinds of mills and what to look for when purchasing them. The authors include helpful step-by-step photographs for many recipes, including a basic yeasted loaf, sourdough, bagels, and baguettes (the authors suggest prepackaged flours for those who choose not to mill their own). From there, they advise what flour to use for making pasta and pizza, offering recipes for several types of pasta (lasagna, tagliatelle, gnocchi, etc.), as well as simple but glorious sauces (ricotta and lemon zest, chicken liver and saffron ragu) to accompany them. Pizza gets a similar deep dive, with dough recipes for Neapolitan, Roman, Detroit, and Connecticut styles, along with suggestions for 13 different toppings ranging from the basic pepperoni to the more innovative pistachio pesto and fontina; corn with scallions; and butter, honey, and lavender. Bread lovers of all skill levels are sure to find themselves returning to this one time and again. This unique and practical collection of standards stands out in a crowded field.

November 1, 2019

Leonti, founder of the mill and bakery Brooklyn Bread Lab, collaborating here with Parla (Food of the Italian South) wants everyone to use freshly milled flour in order to enhance flavor, health, and benefit the environment. His more than 30 recipes rely on a stand mixer and a digital scale and are designed with home bakers in mind. Opening chapters explain different grains and using freshly milled flour without being as detailed or technical as Daniel Leader's Living Bread. Chapters on bread, pasta, pizza, and pastry each begin with suggestions for choosing an appropriate grain, as well as milling and sifting flour for specific purposes. Throughout, recipes note Leonti's preference for a flour made from a certain wheat variety (e.g., warthog). Some recipes are multipaged, so steps align with helpful photos. An avid reader, Leonti includes books as well as sources for home mills, wheat berries, flour, and cooking classes in an extensive resource list. VERDICT Recommended for home cooks looking to up their game using freshly milled flour, whether purchased from an artisanal mill or produced at home.--Bonnie Poquette, Milwaukee

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