Living Bread

Starred review from July 15, 2019
“Some of the best bread comes from tiny bakeries,” writes two-time IACP Award–winner Leader (Bread Alone) in this superb study. He focuses on independent bakeries, gives a primer on ancient grains and DIY flour milling, and provides profiles of European artisan bakers who create outstanding bread (among them Rodolphe Landemain, whose Rue des Martyrs bakery in Paris is known for its traditional baguette). Leader offers readers plenty of tips on baking baguettes, pain au levain, and schwarzbrot (German black bread), among several others. Many recipes are keepers, such as a lush brioche that utilizes crème fraîche, a laminated honey rye with lemon and herbs; and a lovely rosemary and walnut schiacciata made with leftover sourdough starter. The book excels in its attention to French, German, and Italian bakeries and their specialties. Expertly marrying the art and science that’s required to create great bread, the authors walk readers through each step (recipes includes additional tips for professional bakers) with specific instructions to assuage fears and ensure success. This vital addition to the dough canon will resonate with serious home bakers as well as professionals.

August 1, 2019

IACP award winner Leader (Bread Alone Local Breads) offers sound explanations on bread baking, more than 50 recipes, and profiles of many European influencers--not only other bakers but also farmers, millers, and scientists knowledgeable about what it takes to produce a good loaf. The author shares their stories, recipes, and current views about bread, nicely blending respect for ancient ingredients and traditions with a healthy outlook on adopting modern science and technology. As with many bread books for enthusiastic home bakers, this title includes some historical information about wheat and milling as well as a detailed explanation of flour classifications and labeling (American, Italian, German, and French). There are suggestions for home milling and resources lists for specialty equipment and ingredients. The recipes, which do not include hand-kneading details, are grouped by type: straight doughs, yeasted preferments, simple sourdoughs, complex sourdoughs, and sprouted breads. Though intended for home bakers, the recipes provide "notes for professional bakers" working in a production environment, for example. VERDICT Recommended for serious home bread bakers.--Bonnie Poquette, Milwaukee

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