Sunday Suppers at Lucques

October 10, 2005
At Lucques, one of Goin's two Los Angeles restaurants, the Chez Panisse alumna cooks special Sunday fixed-price menus. Whiling away a wintery Sunday evening over Beets and Tangerines with Mint and Orange-Flower Water; Australian Barramundi with Winter Vegetables Bagna Cauda and Toasted Breadcrumbs; or Herb-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Flageolet Gratin, Roasted Radicchio, and Tapenade; and a Gâteau Basque with Armagnac Prunes sounds lovely. Preparing it, though, sounds like a hard day's work, and the organization of recipes in seasonal menus rather than grouped by appetizer, entrée, etc., leaves readers with little flexibility. Goin's recipes for hearty, vegetable-heavy, Mediterranean-style dishes such as an appetizer of Ragoût of Morels with Crème Fraîche, Soft Herbs, and Toasted Brioche; and First-of-the-Season Succotash Salad with fresh lima beans and watercress are clearly written. But most dishes are all-day affairs: Roman Cherry Tart with Almond Crust and Almond Ice Cream incorporates several components and follows on the heels of either Veal Osso Buco with Saffron Risotto, English Peas, and Pea Shoots, or Halibut with Fingerlings, Fava Beans, Meyer Lemon, and Savory Crème Fraîche. Goin does say, "Feel free to mix and match," but she seems to have missed Sunday's "day of rest" concept. 75 full-color photos.

Starred review from November 15, 2005
After cooking at Chez Panisse, Campanile, and other well-known restaurants, Goin opened Lucques in Los Angeles in 1998 and almost immediately received raves for her creative but not at all contrived food. On Sunday evenings, the restaurant strikes a more relaxed ambiance with a smaller prix fixe menu, offering one appetizer, a choice of two entré es, and a dessert. Goin presents 32 of those seasonal menus here, featuring mouth-watering dishes like Grilled Skirt Steak with Artichoke-Potato Hash, Grilled Bluefish in Pancetta with Yellow Tomato Sauce, and Tangelo -Creamsicles - with Sugar Cookies. She writes with passion and humor, and while her recipes are sophisticated and sometimes complicated, they are written with the home cook in mind (make-ahead instructions are included for most). Striking color photographs throughout show off both the recipes and the bounty of fresh ingredients that Goin draws on for inspiration. Highly recommended.

Copyright 2005 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

November 15, 2005
L.A.'s Lucques Restaurant under Chef Goinhas established a solid reputation, but connoisseurs have noted in particular the delights of Goin's Sunday Suppers. To create these popular events, Goin has relied on seasonally fresh ingredients from the L.A. area. These seasonal menus are reproduced here, each organized into four-course dinners: a first course, one of pasta or seafood, a meat course, and a dessert. The ingredient combinations will surprise no one familiar with contemporary California cuisine, and the influence of Alice Waters is everywhere evident. Spring's menus feature peas and pea shoots in diverse guises. Morels and asparagus contribute their own savors. Fall's menus bring pears, apples, and a host of vegetables together. Winter's citrus crop accompanies hearty red meats. Goin's desserts are likely to attract fans since they lean least on hard-to-locate ingredients. These desserts range from simple, chocolaty Bundt cake to " almond" " financier" with fresh fruits.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2005, American Library Association.)