Cooking for Good Times

August 19, 2019
In this entertaining cookbook, Chicago chef Kahan (Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present) celebrates sharing family-style meals with friends and family. Many of the chapters start with a core recipe followed by several fun twists. For instance, after readers master a basic pizza recipe, they will be inspired to incorporate exciting toppings, such as honey-roasted winter squash and kale pesto; roasted eggplant, smoked mozzarella, and hot honey; and mortadella, taleggio, and charred bitter greens. He devotes another chapter to salads, instructing how to select different types of greens organized in different categories (neutral, bitter, and herbs) and sharing enticing salad creations—such as charred radicchio with arugula, cherries, and parmigiano, as well as mixed greens with roasted shallot vinaigrette, nuts, and shaved cheese. The roasted whole fish chapter has plenty of ideas, most notably serving it alongside shrimp with a romesco and warm pepper vinaigrette, and succinctly shares the process of butchering fish. The most memorable recipes come from the panzanella chapter, in which Kahan transforms the classic bread salad with renditions adding roasted leeks, pecans, and apple; tomatoes, green beans, olives, and anchovies; or dandelion greens, honey-roasted squash, and pear. Kahan’s flavorful guide will help readers create memorable meals with ease.

September 1, 2019

Sometimes we all need direction--just tell us what to do and more important, how to do it. That is the aim of this new book by the executive chef of Avec (Cheers to the Publican) in Chicago. He lays it out in 13 basic options, such as "roast some roots," "braise a pork shoulder," "make some pizza dough." Each of these primary ideas is spelled out, with several variations on the theme. Directions and illustrations are specific and easy to follow, with serving suggestions, and even specific brands of products recommended in some cases. This book is the opposite of "cheffy." Almost nothing is assumed, and regular ingredients available to the home cook are virtually always listed (other than the "sheet" of gelatin mentioned for the panna cotta). The main drawback is the somewhat limited palate of foods. For example, only two desserts are included, the aforementioned panna cotta and an olive oil cake. While these may take care of all your dessert needs, if they don't, you will need to look elsewhere. VERDICT Good for minimalists, aspiring novice cooks, and Avec fans. Purchase where there is interest.--Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. Libs., Oxford, OH

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