Coconut & Sambal

July 20, 2020
London chef and food writer Lee brings an intimate knowledge of Indonesian cuisine to this stunningly photographed debut collection of recipes gathered from the author’s Indonesian grandmother and from cooks Lee met traveling through the island nation. The title is inspired by two staples of Indonesian cuisine—coconut in its many forms, and sambal, a ubiquitous chili sauce. She begins with a chapter devoted to snacks like kerupuk, a popular Indonesian cracker that Lee enlivens with kafir lime leaves and peanuts. Soups include an aromatic broth with spiced meatballs. An entire chapter is devoted to vegetable, tofu, and tempeh dishes, such as Gado-Gado (which means “mix-mix” in Indonesian), a peanut sauce–enriched mélange of vegetables, tempeh and tofu. Beef is rarely browned in Indonesian cooking but rather stewed, which, says Lee, requires non-native cooks to toss long-learned “culinary techniques out the window.” Indonesian food can have a kick to it, and Lee offers heat level guides for most of her recipes. Other useful touches include an Indonesian pantry list and recipes grouped by gluten-free, vegan, and other dietary preferences. This sumptuous collection is perfect for home cooks and armchair travelers alike.

November 1, 2020

In her first book, Indonesian Australian chef and food writer Lee presents a tempting collection of Indonesian recipes from snacks and sweets to stews and the ever-present relish called sambal. Lee's focus is on home cooking but she includes recipes for the country's beloved street food snacks and sweets. Dishes include spiced corn fritters, spiced meatball soup, vegetable and tempeh fried noodles, accompanied by suggestions for hard-to-find ingredients. This book has a more rustic vibe than Eleanor Ford's Fire Islands: Recipes from Indonesia but that doesn't mean the food isn't sophisticated; Lee thoroughly describes traditional techniques, along with sensible shortcuts and alternatives while instructing on the many influences on Indonesian cookery. Alongside each recipe is its country of origin, spice level, cooking how-to, and sometimes Lee's personal reflections. Notably, many recipes include vegetarian or vegan variations, and beautiful photographs accompany most dishes. VERDICT An excellent primer on an overlooked cuisine.--Devon Thomas, Chelsea, MI

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