Donabe

October 5, 2015
This evocative book plumbs the depths of this ancient Japanese earthen cookware (which dates back to the eighth century), celebrating the joy of communal dining as well as the vessel itself. With gorgeous full-color photographs, the book takes readers on a journey to the remote mountainous province of Iga, where donabe were created and are still produced today. The recipes range from simple (smoked miso-marinated tofu, braised spicy kabocha) to complex (braised shio-koji beef brisket with sunchokes, radishes, celery, and coffee). All exhibit the clean, balanced flavors that Japanese cuisine is known for, with an emphasis on authentic ingredients, such as yuzu, shiso leaf, and salt-pickled cherry blossoms. Many of the recipes are ambitious in scope, and ingredient lists tend to be long, but headnotes offer a roadmap for completing the dish, and a glossary in the back further illuminates unusual components. Each chapter highlights a different cooking method, showcasing the donabe’s great one-pot versatility and use for braising, steaming, and smoking. The book beautifully explains ichigoichie as “every moment is a once-in-a-lifetime treasure.” Readers who adopt the donabe style of cooking, a thoughtful, earth-to-table approach, may feel the same sentiment about dinner.

October 1, 2015

Chef and cooking instructor Moore, along with coauthor chef Connaughton, here demonstrates the versatility of the donabe, a traditional Japanese clay cooking vessel. The donabe can be used as a rice cooker, steamer, tagine, or smoker, or to prepare comforting one-pot meals. The vessel's porous clay contributes to higher heat retention, and the glaze creates an effect similar to charcoal grilling, leading to flavorful food, served in a lovely dish that can be brought to the table for a communal dinner. The authors provide information about the pot's uses and history as well as donabe culture in Japan. Ideas for dinner parties and brunches are included, in addition to a variety of recipes, from classic duck and tofu hot pots to salmon chowder with miso soy-milk broth, steamed yellowtail shabu-shabu, and a smoked calamari salad in black sesame vinegar sauce. Recipes for dashi, sauces, and condiments are included, as well as a glossary, a guide to kitchen tools, and a list of resources. VERDICT Recommended for donabe owners, as well as those interested in this comforting form of washoku, Japanese home cooking.--Melissa Stearns, Franklin Pierce Univ. Lib., Rindge, NH

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