A Proper Drink

July 18, 2016
Simonson’s knowledge of and appreciation for craft cocktails was nil when he sampled his first sazerac in 2006 while visiting New Orleans to attend Tales of the Cocktail, a libation-focused conference that went on to become an iconic event. Realizing that he was at the epicenter of what would become a global movement, Simonson set out to document the bartenders, bars, and drinks that have forever altered the world of cocktails, and he shares their stories here, along with key recipes. He illustrates just how far cocktail culture has come since the stasis of the 1980s, when TGI Friday’s, of all establishments, invigorated the industry, offering extensive cocktail training and the best pay for bartenders. New initiates became obsessed with authenticity, scouring bookstores for vintage cocktail recipes while jumpstarting the bitters and artisan liqueur industries on which new cocktails rely so heavily. From there, Simonson’s story splinters as he highlights innovative bars such as Milk & Honey, Pegu Club, and Smuggler’s Cove as well as the bartenders and their signature cocktails. Simonson does an admirable job of getting his arms around an ever-morphing subject, showing how a single bar or bartender can have a butterfly effect in an industry that’s constantly evolving. No matter which side of the bar readers are on, they’re sure to work up a powerful thirst.

December 1, 2016

The 1980s were a dark time for cocktail lovers. Ordering a mixed drink at many bars often led to substandard liquor combined with a premade sour mix. Bars that did have cocktail pretensions were about the social scene, and cocktails were simply another booze delivery system. But in the late 1980s and early 1990s, bartenders started to wonder what would happen if drinks were given the same amount of care as food. Scattered across the globe, individuals began looking at old cocktail books, creating and re-creating standards that were fresh and balanced, which delighted the eye and the palate. Simonson, drinks writer for the New York Times, lays out the personal history of the craft cocktail movement, tracing its lineage from the epicenters of New York, London, and San Francisco to its spread across the globe, focusing on the many industry professionals, drinkers, bar owners, and characters who contributed to the new cocktail culture. VERDICT An enjoyable survey of the field, including 40 recipes, that will be best enjoyed by aficionados interested in the details of who made what and when.--Devon Thomas, Chelsea, MI

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