The Sweet Spot

Starred review from September 4, 2017
Yoses, executive pastry chef at the White House from 2007 to 2014, demonstrates that flavor trumps sugar in this collection of worthy desserts. The Obamas referred to him as crustmaster-in-chief and joked that his philosophy was to “treat sugar like salt.” He discusses his “seven pillars of healthier desserts,” such as using more whole grains, no processed foods, and including herbs, spices, and essential oils. Chapters are broken down by type of dessert, including pies, tarts, half-pound cakes, and fancy bites. Innovation rules here: the Moroccan-inspired Casbah Cookie features bergamot oil, local honey, and pomegranate seeds, while a pistachio sponge cake makes use of pistachio flour and is served with a kumquat compote. The Gin Crust Winter Pie includes its namesake liquor (an optional ingredient), along with orange blossom water. Notes throughout the collection—with information such as how to work with dried fruit and what to do with leftover yolks—add value to any baker’s arsenal. Yoses, with Kaminsky, has produced a thoughtful, inspiring title to bake through the seasons.

January 1, 2018

When the Obama family moved into the White House, healthier eating became the directive for the culinary staff. Former White House pastry chef Yosses shares the recipes he created with this in mind. Most Americans are used to desserts that are laden with sugar, but Yosses believes that sugar should be used like salt, in small amounts to sweeten lightly. Yosses uses more whole grains, fruits, nuts, honey, maple syrup, and agave nectar, as well as herbs, spices, and essential oils to showcase the natural flavors and sweetness of the ingredients. When he does use sugar, he employs minimal amounts of brown or turbinado sugar instead of refined white sugar. Many recipes feature unique ingredient combinations and ingredients many wouldn't consider for a dessert, such as fennel or black olives, which may be a turn-off for less adventurous bakers. In addition, some of the ingredients can be pricey or hard to find, such as vanilla bean paste or essential oils. VERDICT These original recipes will appeal to those who want more wholesome, healthier desserts or adventurous bakers looking to try something different.--Melissa Stoeger, Deerfield P.L., IL

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