Dinner in French

Starred review from January 20, 2020
James Beard Award–winning author Clark (Dinner) reminisces about her annual summer family vacation in France and growing up in Brooklyn, and here combines her food experiences from both places to deliver a superb addition to her cookbook repertoire. Whether they are classic French staples such as Nicoise salad and scalloped potato gratin, or inspired twists on the classics such as wine-braised chicken with orange and olives or crème fraîche caramels, each recipe is a hit. Some of her other original, French-inspired creations include cornmeal and harissa soufflé; roasted eggplant with herbs and hot honey; and burrata with brown butter, lemon, and cherries. Clark also provides dozens of helpful make-ahead tips: the béarnaise sauce that is served with seared steaks, for example, can be made up to five days in advance, and the roasted vegetables for the tomato, eggplant, and zucchini tian can be made two days in advance. Equally inviting are her introductions to each recipe, which are filled with fun anecdotes (“It took a long time for me to agree to taste a snail”) and even more helpful tips (“If tarragon isn’t your favorite herb, you can use chives”). This remarkable volume will entice avid home cooks to return to it time and again.

June 1, 2020

Following Dinner: Changing the Game and Dinner in an Instant, New York Times food columnist Clark combines her expertise regarding the dinner meal with her knowledge of French cuisine. Reflecting on family travels to France when she was growing up, Clark informs readers how those trips influenced her cooking at home in Brooklyn and led to recipes such as French onion soup with grilled Gruy�re sandwiches and ratatouille sheet-pan chicken. A section on quiches, tarts, and savory pies is a standout and will draw in home cooks and bakers seeking rewarding meals, such as sweet potato and bacon quiche with parsley, using readily available ingredients. Many dishes, such as chickpea and vegetable tagine with couscous, require some prep work, but Clark writes with ease and convenience in mind, ensuring that readers never feel left behind. Treats for after dinner, such as a Meyer lemon tart, complete the varied collection. VERDICT Fans of Clark, as well as those new to her work, will appreciate how she encouragingly guides them along, and all will find a reassuring voice as they begin to replicate the tastes of France in their kitchen. A must-have.--Stephanie Sendaula, Library Journal

Copyright 2020 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.