American Cheese

August 10, 2020
Berkowitz’s relationship with dairy proves to be obsessive in this exposé that reveals the hidden, overlooked, or simply ignored world of artisanal cheeses, the mongers who love them, and the gatherings that celebrate their abundance. Berkowitz (You Blew It) provides a brief history of cheese carts, reveals that New York City’s famous Murray’s Cheese shop has a secret volunteer program to help with their cheese classes, and chronicles the 2018 Cheesemonger Invitational held in Brooklyn. In Austin, Tex., he visits the Cheeselandia exhibit at the 2019 SXSW festival with its “fondue pots simmering like unoccupied Jacuzzis.” He travels California’s Cheese Trail of some 83 creameries and farms, and sits down at Wisconsin’s Center for Dairy Research for a hard look at curds. In Philadelphia, he attends the Cheese Ball, that city’s “largest cheese party,” an affair hosted by an influencer who calls herself Madame Fromage. Indeed, cheese has always provided a healthy environment for low comedy, and Berkowitz cannot resist flavoring his authoritative knowledge with playful turns of phrase. More endearing is the “nasal distress” caused by his less-than-expert nose for aromas, and the “existential cheese crisis” he experiences after realizing his vegetarianism might be good news for milk cows, but baby male cows pay the price by being raised for beef or veal. Ripe with fresh perspectives, this well-molded collection is a delight.

Starred review from October 1, 2020

This book is cheesy--quite figuratively so. For Berkowitz (Away with Words), it all started at Murray's Cheese in New York with Rogue River Blue. This led to a cheese epiphany and Berkowitz's indulgent odyssey through the artisan cheese world. As he explains, the United States is fairly new to artisanal cheese. The American Cheese Society was founded in 1983, but it wasn't until 2003 that the nation become known for its award-winning cheese: Rogue River Blue. This odyssey of artisan cheese delves deep, from various animals one might milk to make cheese (including platypus, moose, and whale) to the Cheesemonger Invitational to a journey through California Cheese Trail in Sonoma County. The story comes back around to Rouge River Blue as it wins the top prize in the 2019 World Cheese Awards; the first time an American cheese has won. VERDICT An entertaining book for cheese lovers, food enthusiasts, and those looking for a fun read. Much like a good ricotta, it is light and airy with a hint of sweetness.--Dawn Lowe-Wincentsen, Oregon Inst. of Technology, Portland

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