Basque Table

Starred review from November 2, 1998
A native of Bilboa, Spain, and chef-owner of two restaurants (both named Marichu in Manhattan and Bronxville, New York), Barrenechea deftly presents the robust cuisine of her homeland. The Basque region extends from north-central Spain to southwestern France, and has its own language, culture and gastronomic heritage. In the introduction, Barrenechea defines the tenets of Basque cooking--fresh, seasonal ingredients, fish and seafood-dominated dishes, simple cooking techniques (roasting, grilling, sauteing) and straightforward sauces--that yield its honest, lusty flavors. Chapters are organized in the traditional Basque dining sequence: pinchos, (finger foods, similar to Spanish tapas), first courses, main courses and desserts. Recipes focus primarily on authentic, home-style preparations like Larruskain Fish Soup, and Potato and Chorizo Stew Rioja-Style; there are such tried-and-true favorites from Marichu menus as Home-Style Roasted Potatoes, and crustless Custard Tart Bilboa-Style; and coastline-inspired dishes, e.g., Baby Eels in Sizzling Garlic, and an assertive, garlicky Red Snapper Guernica-Style. Clear, step-by-step instructions and workable substitutions enable even novices to navigate the recipes; sidebars provide pleasant armchair traveling. Easy, energetic prose and an intelligent ensemble of accessible recipes offer readers an insider's taste tour of Basque cuisine. Color photos not seen by PW.