My Grandmother's Chinese Kitchen

January 1, 2007
The most enchanting parts of this cookbook are the author's atmospheric essays about learning to cook at her grandmother's stoves as a child in Canton Province, bringing the rituals of pre-revolutionary China to life. Alongside elegant descriptions of her grandmother's bound feet and fields of rice, vegetables and mulberries-the latter of which she grew to feed silkworms-is a treasure trove of family recipes. Lo (The Chinese Kitchen) includes familiar Cantonese favorites like Won Ton, a time-consuming dish that's worth the work, and more obscure choices like Romaine Lettuce with Black Beans, a true winner that's mixed with a garlicky, peppery sauce that won't drown out the freshness of the produce. Other noteworthy dishes include crackling Guangfu Chicken, included in feasts "celebrating a child's first month since birth," and Salted Pork with Silken Bean Curd, a traditional New Year's dish. Also included are a number of recipes for steamed buns, soups and congee, as well as a helpful chapter of ingredient notes. Though beautifully designed with old photos of Lo's family, the volume does not include any photographs of the dishes, a challenge for home cooks who aren't sure what, say, Steamed Whole Wintermelon Soup should look like after an hour or more of cooking. But that's a small objection against what is, on the whole, a cookbook worth holding on to, and even passing down.

February 15, 2007
Now that Lo ("The Chinese Kitchen") is a grandmother, her memories of her maternal grandmother have become even more important to her. From Ah Paw, she learned not only cooking but also "manners and discipline]patience, and]the joy of creation." This memoir with recipes is both a touching tribute to a strong woman and a personal glimpse of an earlier way of life. The recipes are for traditional Chinese dishes, including those for the Lunar New Year and other celebrations. Along with her reminiscences, the author provides background information on ingredients, techniques, and the broader context of Chinese culinary history. For all subject collections.

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