Mastering the Craft of Smoking Food

February 27, 2006
Anderson, a self-taught food-smoking "hobbyist," is enthusiastic about his subject, but his exhaustive tome suffers from an excess of explanation. Clear to the point of stating the obvious (e.g., "oven mitts... are very useful for handling things such as hot smoker racks"), his descriptions of techniques are redundant and read like a technical manual, although Cook's Illustrated
fans might welcome the excruciating detail. In the first half of the book, the author defines smoking, explains the difference between hot and cold smoking, describes a variety of smokers and covers food safety and equipment. The book's second half is more enticing: it includes useful information on curing and brining meat (to enhance flavor); recipes and techniques for preparing such dishes as Peking-Style Chicken, Golden Goose, Lamb Ham, Scotch-Style Smoked Salmon, and Italian Shrimp—Marinated; and a chapter on making sausage. Though directed toward nonprofessionals, this book isn't likely to please armchair chefs. But for those who plan to make a habit of smoking food, Anderson delivers. 24 b&w photos, 24 line drawings.