Hot Sour Salty Sweet

October 9, 2000
With their usual lan, Alford and Duguid (Flatbreads and Flavors; Seductions of Rice) follow the Mekong River through southeast Asia (Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Burma and the Chinese Yunnan region) to bring home a trove of delicious, unusual recipes. Fans of their earlier books may be disappointed to see that their latest volume often revisits earlier themes. Still, there are enough uncommon recipes here to keep even the most inveterate cookbook reader discovering new flavor combinations. (Consider Vietnamese Baked Cinnamon P t and Smoked Fish and Green Mango.) As in their other books, the authors display a specificity and a knowledge of this part of the world that is staggering, as well as a heartfelt reverence for the foods that "real" people eat. Vietnamese Beef Ball Soup, for example, is commonly sold by street vendors, and Shan Salad with Cellophane Noodles was picked up from an acquaintance who lives on the Shan State-Thai border. The provenance of each recipe is provided so that readers may clearly distinguish between multifaceted Thai cuisine and French-influenced Vietnamese foods such as Saigon Subs on baguettes. One-page mini-essays on the pair's travel experiences are truly a treat; they cover topics such as fermented fish and the city of Vientiane. With this third book, Alford and Duguid prove that they are fast producing a body of work that commands serious admiration. The hypnotic black-and-white cover photo of a teapot in soft focus will have book buyers lingering in the aisles.

Starred review from November 15, 2000
IACP/Julia Child Award winners Alford and Duguid (Flatbreads and Flavors: A Baker's Atlas, Seductions of Rice) have now turned their culinary attentions to the vibrant cuisines of Southeast Asia. Traveling south through the Mekong River region, the authors explore the foods and dishes of such countries as Burma, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam, as well as China's Yunnan Province. From Thai-Lao Crispy Rice Crackers and Shan Chile Paste to Classic Vietnamese Spring Rolls and Northern Rice Noodle Stew, the more than 175 recipes and spectacular photographs celebrate the bright, fresh flavors of this part of the world. Essays on the people, places, and cultures of this region are mixed in with the recipes; a glossary of culinary terms and a few select mail order sources are also provided. Part travel essay and part culinary exploration, this is a perfect choice for both adventurous cooks and armchair travelers. Highly recommended for all public libraries.--John Charles, Scottsdale P.L., AZ

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