The Pressured Cook

March 1, 1999
No one else works wonders with a pressure cooker as does Sass (Cooking Under Pressure). In this collection of expert recipes for one-dish meals, she turns away from her vegetarian-specific recipes to create an appealing overview of the world's cuisines. Not only are today's pressure cookers not the sputtering, sometimes explosive devices of the past, but Sass's recipes are not the usual monochromatic, single-flavored one-dish meals. Beef Stewed in Coconut Milk with Rice Noodles and Green Beans is colorful and spicy; meatballs and tiny pasta bob along in Italian Wedding Soup. Although the ingredients are cooked together in a single pot, they are sometimes separated after cooking for greater variety in texture. For example, the recipe for Short Ribs in Pasta Sauce with Olives and Parmesan Potatoes calls for removing the cooked potatoes and mashing them, then serving them as a bed for the ribs. Unusual combinations such as Asturian Beans and Clams, with saffron and kale, are as tempting as the heartier Pork with Sauerkraut, Mushrooms and Potatoes. Even when Sass falls back on old favorites, she adds little touches to make them new: Split-Pea Vegetable Soup is topped with a mint cream made with sour cream or yogurt, and Proven al Vegetable Soup receives a few tablespoons of Pernod. Tips for using and storing pressure cookers and recipes for such basics as broth, beans and grains make this collection complete.

February 15, 1999
Sass is probably right to emphasize "100% safe" in her subtitle--some cooks still have visions of exploding pressure cookers. However, that is not a danger with the newer cookers (and rarely was with older models) and should not keep home cooks from trying Sass's quick-and-easy imaginative recipes for one-pot meals. Author of the excellent Cooking Under Pressure (LJ 11/15/89), among many other titles, Sass has an engaging, no-nonsense style and offers many tips and variations for her wide-ranging recipes. Recommended for most collections.