Tartine All Day

February 6, 2017
Prueitt, cofounder of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery and Tartine Manufactory, likens exploring new ingredients to “learning a new language,” and she expands the home cook’s lexicon with quirky dishes such as kapusniak, a Polish cabbage soup made with a grain called Job’s tears in place of barley. That quirkiness extends to the recipe format: rather than being listed at the top, ingredients appear in margins when needed. Clever techniques abound. For a leg of lamb over a potato-onion gratin with mint salsa verde, meat is roasted directly on an oven rack for maximum crispiness, while the juices drip onto the gratin on the shelf below. The apple beehive calls for stacking apple slices in a dome and dousing them with butter and sugar. Prueitt’s husband, Chad Robertson, is the bread baker for Tartine (and author of Tartine Bread), but Prueitt is in charge of pastry, and she’s gluten intolerant. The gluten-free recipes she includes, such as fresh ginger cookies, may present a challenge for anyone who doesn’t have almond flour, oat flour, brown rice flour, sweet rice flour, and tapioca on hand.

February 15, 2017

Prueitt (coauthor, Tartine) and her husband, Chad Robertson, are the James Beard Award-winning chefs behind San Francisco's Tartine Bakery and Tartine Manufactory. The newest addition to Prueitt's cookbook oeuvre reflects her evolving household cooking. Prueitt shares nononsense recipes--applesauce, whole-loaf cheesy garlic bread, fried chicken, and flan, for example--with the goal of getting home cooks and busy parents through the week. Although uncomplicated, her recipes are full of surprising ingredients and techniques gleaned from decades of professional experience. Anyone who cooks through this book will come away with new favorite recipes and a deeper understanding of nonwheat flours. VERDICT Highly recommended, especially for readers who enjoyed Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer's Canal House Cooks Every Day and Alice Medrich's Flavor Flours.

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