Bouchon

October 25, 2004
Keller's restaurant Bouchon, in Napa Valley, Calif., is modeled after Parisian bistros and serves simple yet sumptuous fare. This graceful ode to bistro cooking emphasizes that although in America, "bistro" is synonymous with "casual," the food is prepared with "precision of technique brought to bear on ordinary ingredients." Close-up photos of signature dishes are alluring, and several action shots of food preparation may help readers refine their techniques. The book's sections progress from "First Impressions" (hors d'oeuvres and more) to "Anytime" dishes (soups, salads, quiches) to appetizers, entrées and desserts. Thoughtful introductions to each recipe grouping explain Keller's experiences with the featured dishes; sidebars on everything from oil to onions provide insight and useful tidbits. A "Basics" chapter attempts to further demystify the foundations of bistro cooking (it's built on staples like confit, stock and aioli), and a "Sources" section directs readers to bistro-appropriate tools and specialty foods. Of course, as any chef knows, food is as much about experience, memory and emotion as it is about flavor and presentation. Especially bistro food, Keller says, which retains the "spirit of the original bistro, the spirit of embracing you... restoring you and making you happy." This appealing book promises to do the same. Photos. (Dec. 1)

Forecast:
A $125,000 marketing budget and author tour could bring
Bouchon success on par with Keller's previous book,
The French Laundry Cookbook, which is now in its 18th printing.

Starred review from December 1, 2004
Keller's Napa Valley, CA, restaurant French Laundry set a new standard for fine cuisine, and his companion cookbook, The French Laundry Cookbook, is considered a modern classic. Bouchon reflects Keller's more recent experience at his more casual bistro restaurant of the same name. Yet just because the prices are lower and the presentation is less elaborate, no less attention is paid to the food and its preparation. Keller has once again taken standard French dishes and shows, through attention to detail, technique, and quality ingredients, how easy it can be to prepare really delicious food. Classic preparations that can seem pedestrian when poorly made, like quiche or onion soup, are reinvigorated by Keller's "clean" techniques. His watchword, as always, is patience; some of the recipes are multiday affairs that will test the capabilities of many home chefs. But most are simple dishes, carefully seasoned; many improve when made ahead of time. Encouraging, thoughtful, informative, but never didactic, Keller trusts his audience with the art of cooking. Highly recommended.-Devon Thomas, Hass MS&L, Ann Arbor, MI

Copyright 2004 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

January 1, 2005
Keller holds the chef-of-the-moment title. It's still nearly impossible to book a table in his renowned French Laundry restaurant in rural California even though the chef himself has largely forsaken the scene to open an eagerly awaited luxe Manhattan eatery. This new cookbook takes its title from Keller's less expensive bistro next door to his California location. At Bouchon he and his kitchen staff concentrate on bistro classics: onion soup, roast chicken, tarte tatin. Onion soup relies on sound beef stock and well-caramelized onions. For his roast chicken, Keller looks for a farm-raised bird, properly cleaned and dried with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper. Unlike other chefs, Keller opts for trussing the chicken for even cooking and easy handling. He extols the French art of potted meats, but offers just a few pates. Pigs' feet put in an appearance and add their rich rustic savor to the menu. Other recipes for salads, vegetables, and desserts follow a similar pattern of exquisite ingredients simply prepared. For regional collections.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2005, American Library Association.)