L.A. Mexicano

July 10, 2017
Spinning off of his Street Gourmet L.A. blog, Esparza guides readers to some of the best Mexican restaurants in the L.A. area. Esparza, a saxophonist who grew up in Stockton, Calif., toured with a number of pop, jazz and blues artists throughout the U.S. and Latin America. Along the way, he educated himself on regional Latin cuisines and shares that knowledge in this educational book, which includes numerous recipes. He profiles each restaurant’s owner, including Soledad Lopez, a former factory worker who introduced Oaxacan cuisine to L.A .in the 1980s with her restaurant Guelaguetza Palms, and Ramiro Arvizu and Jaime Martin Del Campo, whose La Casita Mexicana made a viable argument for haute Mexican cuisine. Home cooks will appreciate solid recipes for classics such as chicken tamales, taquitos, and fish tacos, as well as inventive riffs such as a ramen-like take on classic fideos, squash tacos with pumpkin seeds and an avocado-tomatillo salsa, and a luscious papaya cream soup. Angelenos will get the most out of the book, but any serious aficionado of Mexican cuisine is sure to appreciate the dishes showcased here as well as the stories of their creators.

August 1, 2017

Take a tour of Los Angeles's Mexican cuisine with expert and James Beard Award-winning writer Esparza, who deftly covers the topic with passion and sensitivity. After introducing kitchen equipment, techniques, ingredients, and Mexico's culinary regions, he begins with simple recipes for beans, rice, and various kinds of salsa. He then guides readers through three distinct styles of Mexican food, sharing wide-ranging recipes (e.g., taquitos with avocado sauce, chicken relleno negro, squash tacos with pumpkin seeds & avocado-tomatillo salsa) from notable individuals, restaurants, food trucks, and other vendors. Lengthy profiles highlight community figures and add context, and a concluding list of neighborhood resources recommends places to visit. VERDICT A fascinating read, this informative cookbook will thrill Mexican food lovers who value variety and authenticity. Highly recommended.

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