Paella!

May 10, 1999
Determined to rescue paella from what the author calls its "worldwide ignominy," Casas (Tapas) offers 58 enticingly authentic recipes, most drawn from Spain's eastern coast. Cooks weary of risotto, or those simply tired of all the stirring it entails, will be attracted to the intriguing combinations of flavors that can be achieved with this other Mediterranean approach to short-grained rice. The grain imported from Spain is best, says Casas, but Arborio is more than acceptable--and while a paella pan is similarly preferred, a shallow casserole dish also works well. Preparation is within easy reach for anyone: saut ingredients briefly, add rice, add hot liquid, boil for several minutes, then pop in the oven to bake. Dishes include Scallop and Wild Mushroom Paella; Golden Rice with Shrimp and Fresh Tuna; Crusted Paella with Pork, Chicken and Sausage; and Vegetable Paella with Spicy Garlic Sauce. Casas also includes paellas with squid, rabbit and duck. There is even a Seafood Pasta Paella from Valencia that calls for no rice at all. The balance of the meal is covered with 25 recipes for tapas and first courses and another 25 for such desserts as Chocolate Flan with Almond-Flavored Chocolate Sauce and White Sangria Sorbet with Melon and Kiwi. With Casas's demystifying help, good paella will be a revelation to many.

March 15, 1999
Casas says paella is her passion, and she's determined to show Americans what a "glorious" dish an authentic paella can be. Rather than the usual jumble of shellfish, chicken, and sausage, she prefers versions that feature one particular ingredient. She emphasizes the fact that the rice isn't an afterthought; rather, "the texture and flavor of the rice is everything." She includes recipes for more than 50 different types, from the classic Black Squid Paella ("one of the paella greats") to Vegetable Paella with Spicy Garlic Sauce; there are also recipes for tapas, desserts, and some delicious sauces and dips. Casas is well known for her authoritative books on Spanish food and wine (e.g., Delicioso! The Regional Cooking of Spain, LJ 3/15/96), and most collections will want her latest.

May 15, 1999
Casas has set out on a mission to rescue Americans from their misunderstanding of paella. For those who have always assumed that authentic paellas mound their pans with chicken, sausage, several kinds of shellfish, and a host of other ingredients, Casas sets the record straight. Her true paellas feature just one or two seafoods or meats or vegetables so that flavors stay pure and distinct. Casas also emphasizes the importance of the rice used in paella. Rather than standard American long-grain rice, a respectable paella requires short-grain rice such as Italian arborio, the basis for risotto. In fact, the standards for a good paella run parallel to those for a good risotto. Both dishes demand fresh, flavorful stock and good garnishing, and perfectly seasoned and chewy rice defines the essence of both creations. Casas has rescued a much-maligned dish and demonstrated how delightful it can become in the hands of a knowledgeable, thoughtful cook. Recipes for appetizers and desserts complementing paella frame the book's principal subject. ((Reviewed May 15, 1999))(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 1999, American Library Association.)