All About Dinner

July 15, 2019
The latest from James Beard Award–winner Stevens (All About Roasting) helps home cooks resist the urge to order in with a raft of relatively easy-to-prepare meals. After an introduction that lists “15 habits of highly effective cooks” (including not skimping on salt and using an oven thermometer), Stevens breaks down the chapters in traditional sections (salads, fish, vegetables). While there’s little revolutionary, dishes such as salmon fillets marinated in a mixture of soy sauce and sesame oil, and broccoli raab sautéed with garlic and hot pepper will have perennial appeal. Stevens is a teacher at heart and that background shows through her thorough instructions: if one roasts cauliflower for a spicy soup on a parchment-lined pan, “pick up the paper like a sling and slide all the vegetables into the pot.” Many recipes provide instructions for making in advance, and helpful sidebars highlight, for example, the types of feta cheese (Greek has “a bold flavor” while Bulgarian tends to be “creamy and mild”) and explain the differences between “air-chilled” and “wet-chilled” chicken. A brief chapter on sweets includes shortbread and a carrot layer cake. Steven’s options are solid and have great potential to work their way into rotation for time-pressed home cooks.

September 1, 2019

While there are many inspirational and aspirational cookbooks, they don't always help with the daily task of getting dinner on the table. Stevens, a winner of both IACP and James Beard awards for All About Roasting, understands the time and equipment limits of the home kitchen and is here to help. Her latest offering, All About Dinner, focuses on building skills and confidence in the kitchen. While not offering a primer for first-time cooks, she does explain ingredients and techniques thoroughly so that the uncertain cook will have success. There is plenty for experienced cooks as well, including sophisticated flavor combinations and clever tips. The book covers salads, soups, snacks, and desserts, as well as dinner entrées made with meat, poultry, fish, pasta and grains, and vegetables. Recipes range from comfort food (turkey and vegetable pot pie) to the more unusual (whole-grain sorghum with sautéed mushrooms and miso.) Stevens encourages readers to use the recipes as jumping-off points and offers ways to vary ingredients and flavor profiles. VERDICT A solid and attractive addition for any home cook.--Devon Thomas, Chelsea, MISciences

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