Burma Superstar

November 21, 2016
Myanmar Superstar might have a nicer ring to it, but the Burma Superstar restaurant in San Francisco dates back to 1992, so Tan, the restaurant’s proprietor since 2001, uses both country names interchangeably in this collection of 80 recipes. The offerings are taken from both his eatery and the Burmese streets, and the 10 chapters provide keen insight into how these dishes differ from other Asian cuisine. Curries, a popular entrée, are milder than their Indian and Thai cousins. Among the seven options here are a coconut chicken curry and a tart pork curry with green mango pickle. Beef is not a mainstay, but it still manages to pop up in the steak kebat, a stir-fry with tomato, onions, and a blend of nine spices. Tan informs readers that the de facto national dish is mohinga, a noodle and fish soup, seasoned with lemongrass and ginger and thickened with ground toasted rice. And it is fascinating to learn that “half of the tea consumed in Myanmar is eaten, not drunk.” A 10-page spread, enhanced by the culinary photography of John Lee, explores how tea leaves are transformed into the edible, fermented snack known as laphet. For those who want the caffeine but would still rather sip, in this gratifying cookbook, there is a strong Myanmar tea, sweetened with evaporated milk.

April 15, 2017

Burma Superstar is a popular Northern California restaurant known for its flavorful Burmese cuisine. Writing with veteran author Leahy (A16 Food + Wine; The Preservation Kitchen), owner Tan recounts the restaurant's 25-year history and the circumstances that led to his purchasing it in 2000. The 80 recipes--some from the eatery and others from Tan's travels and home cook acquaintances--include such captivating dishes as egg and okra curry, superstar vegetarian noodles, tea leaf salad, and black rice pudding. A few ingredients will require some sleuthing, but overall this volume is accessible for novice home cooks. VERDICT Burmese cooking is an area of renewed interest, making this a solid addition for most Southeast Asian cooking collections, along with Naomi Duguid's award-winning Burma: Rivers of Flavor.

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