Ancient Brews

July 17, 2017
Anthropology professor McGovern (Uncorking the Past) continues his exploration of ancient elixirs, taking readers on a global trip through time to discover how various intoxicants were created and imbibed. McGovern and his travel and research partner Sam Calagione, the CEO of Dogfish Brewery, offer recipes for a number of these ancient quaffs. Beginning in the Cretaceous period—when, as McGovern notes, our ancestors likely discovered the wonders of fermentation—their journey takes them to the Middle East to learn about a curious Phrygian cocktail likely composed of wine, beer, and mead—and, later, to China, Egypt, and Scandinavia, among other countries. McGovern’s excitement and passion for his subject shines brightly, but it’s at times slowed by academic passages that read more like lectures than field reporting. Home brew enthusiasts, however, will appreciate that attention to detail, as McGovern offers painstakingly specific recipes for recreating these beverages as well as suggested dishes to complement them. Beer historians and home brewers are sure to find McGovern’s work a worthwhile addition to the brewing canon.

May 1, 2017

At a time when craft breweries are becoming increasingly prominent, exploration of ancient beers is an inspired move. McGovern, who directs projects on biomolecular studies at the University of Pennsylvania Museum, is an ideal guide. Taking advantage of opportunities arising in such disparate locations as Egypt, China, and Peru, his team analyzes organic deposits on artifacts to determine what may have been used in these concoctions. Better still, he partners with brewers to try to emulate their products as authentically as possible. This may involve chewing grains (saliva converts starches to sugars for fermentation) or using herbs and fruits that may be foreign to American audiences. Although the narrative often meanders, getting lost in too much background context, overall, this is a fascinating work that genuinely illuminates ancient history well beyond merely recounting myths or battles. VERDICT Rich in detail but perhaps narrow in audience, this book arrives at the intersection of beer enthusiasts and anthropology fans. Recommended where culinary history is popular.--Peter Hepburn, Coll. of the Canyons Lib., Santa Clarita, CA

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