Art of the Pie

Starred review from August 1, 2016
McDermott, a self-taught baker whose workshops have taught hundreds to make a proper pie, shares that knowledge more widely in one of the best books written on the topic. Those expecting a quick preamble followed by hundreds of pie recipes will be sorely disappointed—basic instructions take up a third of the book—but readers interested in the hows and whys of pie-making will find McDermott’s tutelage invaluable, as she offers in-depth coverage of pan selection (you can’t go wrong with glass), the proper fats (lard and butter are good choices), and selecting the right apples. Once readers have made their crust of choice (gluten free options are also included), they’re good to go, and McDermott’s recipes are straightforward. Beginners will appreciate simple recipes such as the Rustic Tart, which only calls for fresh fruit, sugar, and a little nutmeg, and will be glad that the majority of her fruit pies (blackberry, blueberry, peach, etc.) are essentially the same in terms of process and ingredients. Veteran bakers interested in expanding their repertoires will enjoy combinations such as apricot raspberry and apple cranberry walnut as well as inventive riffs (poached pear sour cream caramel pie, banana rum caramel coconut pie). But it’s really all about the standards, and with one glaring omission—sweet potato pie—McDermott excels, giving readers an informative guide they’ll be referring to for years to come.

Starred review from December 1, 2016

Expert pie baker McDermott counsels readers to "work dough and life lightly," and this easygoing outlook pervades her eight chapters of sweet and savory pies, which include such delights as poached pear sour cream caramel pie with a crumb topping, concord grape pie, banana rum caramel coconut pie, and traditional English pork pies. There are more than a dozen pie doughs, including vegan, gluten-free, and fryer-friendly options. McDermott describes essential techniques (e.g., how to make and roll a traditional pie dough, how to weave a lattice top) in sensuous detail, using the encouraging tone of a close friend or relative. VERDICT Few pie cookbooks are as heartwarming and funny as McDermott's instructive debut.

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