Sweet

Starred review from July 3, 2017
The latest from Ottolenghi (after Nopi), written with pastry chef and longtime collaborator Goh, displays the signature dishes that have earned the London restaurateur legions of fans and a monthly column in the New York Times: doughnuts filled with saffron custard and dusted with cardamom sugar; dark-chocolate brownies streaked with tahini and halva, which incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients used in new ways; and clever lemon layer cake with vertical stripes of blackcurrant puree and buttercream and a trio of cylindrical cakes baked in cans. In the preface, the authors brush off concerns about sugar and note that though gluten-free and nut-free recipes are marked for convenience, there was no purposeful attempt to include them. Many recipes include multiple parts, but thorough instructions and alternatives for the unusual pans sometimes called for make them accessible. The volume closes with thoughtful tips and notes on ingredients. A catch-all chapter includes such different delights as a barley pudding and a frozen parfait in the form of an oversize ice cream sandwich. Modern, creative, appealing, and, most importantly, fun—this is Ottolenghi at the top of his game.

July 1, 2017

Nearly ten years since the UK release of Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, readers may be wondering whether Ottolenghi's cookbooks are still worth the hype. In the case of this elegantly understated baking guide, the answer is yes. Written with pastry chef and product developer Goh, the book brings together signature cookies, cakes, confections, tarts, and other desserts from Ottolenghi's eponymous restaurants. Recipes such as chocolate and peanut butter s'mores, apricot and amaretto cheesecake, chai brulee tarts, and yogurt panna cotta with basil and crushed strawberries look terrific on the page and produce consistently exquisite results. Some readers may balk at sourcing hard-to-find items such as passionfruit pulp, prickly pears, and speciality cake rings, but adventurous bakers will embrace the challenge. Plan to review the "baker's tips and notes" section, which contains important information about ingredients and techniques. VERDICT Expect demand for this much-anticipated title.

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