Something Old, Something New

February 15, 2018

The latest work by Adler (An Everlasting Feast) is an enjoyable collection of dinner and lunch menus structured around long-forgotten recipes that Adler collects, most being left behind owing to changes in food tastes, cooking techniques, and philosophies. Adler leaves some of the recipes as is; others need a bit of updating to be useful for modern chefs. For example, the term boil has become more specific--it used to mean "cook." With each recipe, Adler provides a brief food history, personal memory, and some expertise on technique. She also shares her own variations for each recipe. Although Adler is a former professional chef (her work includes a stint at Chez Panisse), she does not look at cooking as an overly serious task; as a result, her commentary is relatable and these varied recipes can be accomplished by most cooks. VERDICT Home cooks looking to adventure into the past will find much to enjoy with these refound recipes.--Ginny Wolter, Toledo Lucas Cty. P.L.

Copyright 2018 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

March 5, 2018
Adler (An Everlasting Meal) reimagines emblematic continental fare and famous chef-inspired dishes of a bygone era, breathing new life into more than 100 culinary mainstays—shrimp scampi, duck à l’orange, Oysters Rockefeller, and Crab Louis, to name just a few. Deviled eggs lose the pickled relish and are elevated with a punch of parmesan cheese, white wine vinegar, and anchovies; watercress soup becomes a passionate “fairy-green cream” by adding butter, heavy cream, with croutons, or poached shrimp on top; Waldorf salad, the 1950s “fixture at nice ladies’ luncheons,” replaces mayonnaise with creamy soft-boiled eggs, olive oil, and lemon juice; soufflés also get a modern facelift (Adler adds sliced spring garlic to the bechamel). There are also suggested seasonal menus with wine pairings. Mindy Dubin’s vivid watercolors entice, while Adler’s beautiful, reflective prose provides history and insight into each dish. Adler shows how nostalgic, old school dishes can taste current when remade with a modern sensibility.

March 1, 2018
Adler has an affinity for classic cooking in the mode of Escoffier and Larousse Gastronomique. But she also has a curious intelligence and technical command to back up a thoughtful approach to classic French dishes, which reimagines what might be produced out of a home kitchen. A cook faced with leftover beef stew can repurpose it into a filling for rice croquettes or a simple baked pasta casserole. And if some of this new pasta dish is left over? Turn it into a frittata. In Adler's hands, the generations of a starter dish seem infinite. Her way with vegetables extends from simple parsley potatoes to an astonishing dish of spinach whose preparation extends over four or more days, each day coaxing more butter into the leafy greens. She works fennel into many dishes to ramp up their flavor profile. Any cook looking to exercise and enhance creativity will find in Adler a worthy muse.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2018, American Library Association.)