The Exotic Kitchens of Peru

May 3, 1999
It's little wonder that interest in Latin American eating is heating up these days. As Marks demonstrates in his latest culinary adventure (his previous cookbooks introduced us to the cuisines of Burma, India and Indonesia), Peruvian food is as rich and complex as its history. The recipes, gathered from professional chefs and home cooks, reflect this multicultural mix of the fallen Inca Empire and of the successive waves of Spanish conquerors, African slaves, Chinese laborers and Italian and Japanese immigrants who made Peru their home. Tallarin de Pollo (Spaghetti and Chicken) is seasoned with Peruvian chili peppers and cumin, while Ocopa de Camarones (Spicy Shrimp Paste with Potatoes) features the coastal shrimp alongside mountain-grown potatoes and peanuts introduced from Africa. Among the surprisingly simple recipes for ceviche--regarded as the Peruvian national dish and made of raw fresh fish marinated in citrus juices that "cook" the flesh--is one for Ceviche Japones. Carefully researched, with information on the historical and cultural significance of various dishes, the book is occasionally more appealing to read than cook from; it's probably one of the few cookbooks with a traditional Inca recipe for Cuy Frito (Crisp Fried Guinea Pigs). But Marks has easy, practical advice on how to adapt even Piranha Broth (use perch or sunfish instead) to the American kitchen, proving there's more to Peru than just small potatoes.