The River Cottage Fish Book

December 5, 2011
In the latest of his British cookbooks re-edited for an American audience, the usually land-loving proprietor of River Cottage brings along an aptly surnamed seafood expert to explore a huge variety of crustaceous or finned delicacies. The collection bears the three classic earmarks of Fearnley-Whittingstall’s writing. First, it is comprehensive to a fault. The 135 recipes are preceded by a 100-page chapter entitled “Understanding Fish,” which examines the food’s health benefits as well as necessary knife skills for the chef. And the final third of the book is a guide to sea creatures presented in encyclopedic format, from the history of herring to the lifecycle of the budgie. Second, he maintains a strong focus on sustainable eating. Not only are there rules for sustainable shopping and a list of threatened species to avoid, but also, amid treats like lobster with herb mayonnaise, and sea bass baked in raw salt, there is a section on thrift (i.e., leftovers) with entries including roast pollock head, and deep-fried fish skins. The third trait involves the disarming straightforwardness he often exhibits toward the dispatch of his prey. In a brief meditation entitled “Killing fish,” he observes that the most effective means is “a sharp crack across the head,” using either a “bosher” made specifically for the deed, or a “well-chosen found object.” Thus, a secondary function is born for this 600-page hardcover.

January 1, 2012

In Fearnley-Whittingstall's latest River Cottage book (River Cottage Everyday; The River Cottage Meat Book), he is joined by fish authority Fisher, and they include an introduction to sourcing and preparation, a cooking primer with recipes, and an encyclopedic guide to fish and shellfish. This timely reference emphasizes sustainability and puts the conflict of conscience and appetite at the forefront. The book is dauntingly text heavy, but the prose is entertaining (for instance, an entry on lobster references Monty Python and the Holy Grail). This book alone can help you become a fish expert, but also consider Barton Seaver's For Cod and Country, Paul Johnson's Fish Forever, or Rick Moonen and Roy Finamore's Fish Without a Doubt.

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