The Occasional Vegetarian

August 1, 2011
Drawing from her New York Times column, "The Temporary Vegetarian," Louie (Savoir Fare London) has collected an irresistible array of vegetable-centered fare mainly contributed by chefs from top New York restaurants (Gramercy Tavern, Union Square Cafe, 10 Downing). Louie's sensuously described alphabetical rundownâfrom the rare, peppery broccoli spigarello to humble cabbage, beans, and potatoesâwill leave eaters of all stripes giddy, including carnivores like herself, flexitarians, and vegetarians and vegans. Many of the recipes are simple creative twists on comfort foods (a mac-and-cheese made elegant with a variety of mushrooms; Eli Zabar's rich egg salad sandwich with dill) and ethnic favorites (Korean bibimbap, vegan tempura, zucchini and squash tacos, a lentil soup from Kalustyan's specialty food store). The standouts contrast colors, textures, and flavors to please the eye and excite the palate: vegan grilled watermelon crowned with red, orange, yellow, and green heirloom tomatoes; braised endive with blood oranges, Sicilian pistachios and ricotta salata; Moroccan stuffed tomatoes with sautéed green zucchini, spices, and pistachios; roast pumpkin and watercress salad with pesto dressing. Preparation times range from 15 minutes for the watermelon to two hours for an upscale cauliflower and cheese "flan." This outstanding volume proves that vegetables can steal the show.