Tapas

Starred review from October 17, 2005
Although Andrés, a protégé of modern Spanish culinary padre
Ferran Adria, stresses the importance of "sticking to the basics," each recipe in his debut collection of tapas (small-plate dishes) is stunningly standout. From Lobster with Clementines and Grapefruit in Saffron Oil to Slow-Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Cabrales (a knock-your-socks-off Asturian blue cheese), each dish, matched with a Spanish wine, strikes the right balance of being unusual but not too
out there. Recipes are introduced with an anecdote, helpful hints and simple variations, and traditional Spanish dishes that typically take hours to prepare have been updated to accommodate modern cooks' schedules (among them, a Catalonian classic slow-roasted chicken, stewed with dried apricots, hazelnuts and prunes, ready in under 30 minutes). Though Andrés omits desserts (with the exception of flan, courtesy of mamá
), he more than makes up for it with entire chapters dedicated to mushrooms, tomatoes and even garlic. Andrés showcases the bounty and vibrancy of Spanish cuisine without alienating readers, explaining through his precise and charming philosophy that "tapas are for eating at home or with friends." 260 color photos.

October 15, 2005
With five highly successful restaurants in Washington, DC, and its environs, André s is probably the best-known Spanish chef in the country. His first cookbook presents some of the delectable tidbits he serves at his tapas restaurants, including traditional favorites re-created with American ingredients. He describes tapas as -a way of eating, and a way of living, - but he sees these as dishes to share and mix, to serve as an appetizer or as a meal in themselves. Recipes are organized by ingredient, from olives and olive oil to citrus to fish, shellfish, and meat, and they are mouth-watering: Oven-Roasted Potatoes and Oyster Mushrooms, for example, or Lobster with Pimentó n and Olive Oil. Each recipe includes a chef's tip, and thoughtful wine suggestions are provided as well. Highly recommended.

Copyright 2005 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

October 15, 2005
Tapas have become a major presence on the American restaurant scene. People love grazing on the small plates of food that were originally served in bars in Spain to accompany sherry. Andres is a master of tapas cookery, and he presents a few of the dozens of dishes that make up this cuisine. Seafood figures prominently in many of Andres' recipes: squid, octopus, hake, monkfish, salmon, and snapper. He offers substitutions for some of the harder-to-find varieties of fish. Beans appear, always brightly seasoned. Mild peppers may be raw, steamed, or roasted to add a unique dimension to some tapas. Many of Andres' tapas specify particular Spanish cheeses, some of which find ready substitutes. Some more-substantial dishes include rack of lamb, meatballs, and rabbit. Spanish wines paired to each dish demonstrate these wines' growing sophistication and ready availability. Growing appreciation of Spanish cooking and the too-frequent confusion of Spanish and Mexican cooking make this a useful purchase. This is also valuable for anyone looking to generate some novelty in a routine cocktail buffet spread.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2005, American Library Association.)