Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

January 3, 2005
Celebrated vegetarian chef Madison's latest warmly written gem offers everything from quickie suppers to subtle, sophisticated dinner-party dishes while encouraging local, seasonal eating and unfussy kitchen artisanship. Her earthy, vigorous Pasta and Chickpeas with Plenty of Parsley and Garlic comes together in a flash, and is enlivened by the addition of Beluga lentils, a suggestion she makes in her "Variations" column. (It will also convince anyone that whole wheat pasta can be delicious.) The Onion and Rosemary Tart with Fromage Blanc is rich, creamy and gorgeously smooth, with a crisp and flavorful shell. And the Brussels Sprout and Mushroom Ragout with Herb Dumplings employs fresh tarragon to brilliant effect (it flavors both the ragout and the dumplings) to make a kind of sophisticated comfort food that's only slightly too heavy on the sprouts. And if Winter Squash Lasagna with Sage, Walnuts and Black Kale seems too ambitious for a Tuesday night, there's always Wine-Braised Lentils Over Toast or even a Fried-Egg Sandwich. Madison's recipes do call for good kitchen gear (Dutch ovens, double-boilers, numerous gratin pans and casseroles) and some hard-to-find ingredients (fromage blanc, blanched nettles, Thai basil), but they're flexible enough to allow for substitutions. Though not as broad as Madison's James Beard–winning Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
nor as detailed as her classic The Greens Cookbook
, this volume is a wonderful addition to any vegetarian or "vegophile" kitchen.

March 15, 2005
Madison made her name with the elaborate vegetarian dishes she served as chef at Greens in San Francisco (her two restaurant cookbooks have sold close to half a million copies); her more recent books, however, have featured simple, satisfying home-style cooking. The vegetable gratins, stews and braises, and savory pies featured here seem ideal for a casual supper, whether at the kitchen table with family or in the dining room with friends. There are also pasta, egg, and tofu dishes; sandwiches; and a selection of "hearty cool-weather suppers" and lighter meals for warm summer nights. Each recipe includes notes for streamlining preparation, as well as suggestions for accompaniments; full-page color photographs are featured throughout. The first in a new series, this is recommended for most collections.

Copyright 2005 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.