The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook

October 4, 1999
This is a cookbook that will bring a tear to readers' eyes, and not just because it will have them chopping four onions for Chopped Liver. In 1996, Abe Lebewohl, owner of New York's famed Second Avenue Deli, was murdered; now Sharon, Lebewohl's daughter and current deli steward, and food writer Bulkin present recipes from the New York establishment as well as touching and funny anecdotes from the many people who adored him. The famous and less-famous contribute recipes along with their stories: food critic Mimi Sheraton recalls hearing Lebewohl explain matzo ball soup to a Japanese journalist (a monologue that included an overview of the Old Testament) and offers her Favorite Matzo Balls. Alfred Portale, chef and owner at the swanky Gotham Bar and Grill, recalls Lebewohl's generous praise and provides a recipe for Whole Roast Red Snapper with Tomatoes, Lemon and Thyme. Lebewohl, who was such a friend to working people that he once provided free lunches to striking NBC workers for 21 weeks, would appreciate the profile of veteran waitress Diane Kassner, famous for her quips (Customer: How is the stuffed breast of veal served? Diane: On a plate). Recipes from the restaurant itself are traditional Eastern European Jewish fare--e.g., Kreplach and Gefilte Fish. There are also a smattering of such Middle Eastern dishes as Falafel and Tabbouleh and a few concessions to today's lighter eating habits (Turkey Meat Loaf and Broiled Fillet of Sole la Second Avenue). The latter recipes belie a talk Lebewohl once gave on the topic "Is Deli Dying in New York?" where he quipped: "What am I gonna tell you? My food will kill you."