Oaxaca al Gusto

August 1, 2010

Page after page of recipes and color photographs of the ingredients, techniques, and dishes make Kennedy's (The Essential Cuisines of Mexico) latest appear to be a cookbook; however, her goal is not to adapt Mexican food for the American (or other) kitchen. She truly means to show readers the remarkable range of dishes in the state of Oaxaca. Authenticity matters, and if the home cook is likely to be uncomfortable with the recipe (beef brains cooked in banana leaves) or unable to find produce specific to parts of Oaxaca (guachepil flowers), so be it. The result is an anthropological study of the variations in climate and geography around the state that influence how its citizens cook and eat. Indeed, Kennedy credits many individuals for the recipes, demonstrating her commitment to exploring people's relationship to their cuisine. VERDICT Kennedy's work is truly a gastronomy, not a cookbook, and should be approached as such. Recommended for libraries with special collections in Mexican cultural studies. [Previewed in "BEA Beyond the Buzz," LJ 7/10; 15-city tour.]--Peter Hepburn, Univ. of Illinois at Chicago

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