The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen

May 3, 1999
San Francisco native and recipe developer Young (The Best of China; The Best of Thailand) recalls the classic Cantonese meals of her youth, sharing family anecdotes and the basic tenets of Chinese cooking. In Part I, "Mastering the Fundamentals," she introduces essential techniques of the Chinese kitchen: selecting produce, chopping, slicing, steaming, stir-frying, even correctly preparing rice. Aiming to preserve the integrity of traditional dishes, Young instructs with Cantonese de rigueur, eschewing substitutes for such exotic ingredients and shortcuts as food processors. Although labor-intensive steps often precede the cooking process, this 140-recipe collection provides clear, straightforward instruction largely accessible to home cooks. Recognizable favorites such as Eggplant in Garlic Sauce and Pepper and Salt Shrimp, as well as less familiar preparations such as Rock Sugar Ginger Chicken, offer broad palate appeal. Part II, "The Art of Celebration," explores the symbolism of special occasion and Chinese New Year dishes, including Turnip Cake, the glutinous rice flour New Year's Cake, and fried Sesame Balls, all considered harbingers of prosperity for the New Year. Young ends her collection on a holistic note; the last section, "Achieving Yin-Yang Harmony," elaborates the Chinese belief of the yin (cooling) and yang (warming) characteristics of foods as well as their purported remedial and restorative properties. "Tonic soups" include Almond Soup--for moistening the lungs and clearing the skin. Probing her rich culinary heritage with passion and fortitude, Young expertly reveals ancient secrets encouraging readers to experience the joy of authentic Chinese cooking.

May 15, 1999
Although Young, a food writer, grew up in a traditional Chinese American home in San Francisco, until quite recently, she says, she took her culinary heritage for granted. She realized she knew more about other cuisines than the Cantonese cooking of her own background, and so she decided to set down her family's recipes. In the process, she learned much more about her parents, her ancestors, and her extended family than she'd expected, and the result is this lovely, very personal book. The first part includes recipes for the everyday dishes prepared for the family by both her mother and father, introduced by reminiscences such as "Going to Market with Mama" or mini-essays on topics like "The Meaning of Rice." The next section focuses on celebration, specifically the traditions and dishes of the Chinese New Year. The final part is devoted to "Cooking as a Healing Art," with recipes for tonics and soups. (This is the shortest section; Nina Simond's recent A Spoonful of Ginger, LJ 4/15/99, has more on Chinese holistic healing.) Some of Young's recipes are elaborate or require unsual ingredients, but she was interested in the authentic versions, not Americanized Cantonese food, and her instructions are clear and thorough. Well written and absorbing, Young's cookbook/memoir is highly recommended.

Copyright 1999 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.