Desert Terroir

March 1, 2012

Terroir is a term used to describe how characteristics of the land affect the flavors of the foods produced from it. Prolific author Nabhan (Coming Home To Eat: The Pleasures and Politics of Local Food) attempts to discover what creates the unique terroir of the desert borderlands of Mexico and the United States. In his travels throughout the borderlands, he is introduced to local foods such as wild oregano, prickly pear cactus, mesquite tortillas, and a Mexican breed of cattle. Nabhan explains how the desert ecology, such as the soil and water (or lack thereof), affects the tastes of these foods. He also explores how cultural history can affect terroir, tracing the history of the Spanish and Arab immigrants to the region. VERDICT Although a few other titles explore terroir, Nabhan's focus on the desert borderlands brings a distinctive perspective to this topic. Despite a somewhat uneven narrative, this quick read will appeal to ardent foodies interested in this particular region and its foods.--Melissa Stoeger, Deerfield P.L., IL

Copyright 2012 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.