In the Hands of a Chef

December 3, 2001
Adams, chef at Boston's acclaimed restaurant Rialto, identifies two popular cookbook approaches—easy and elaborate—and calls for a third: "artisanal home food." As lovely as this sounds, this book also falls under the heading of complicated. However, Rialto's fans will cheer at the chapter of signature recipes like Soupe de Poisson and Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce. Smoked Salmon Rolls with Arugula, Mascarpone, Chives and Capers and sophisticated entrées like Grilled Bluefish with Pomegranate Glaze and Cucumber-Yogurt Sauce are perfect for dinner parties. Terrific sides like Beet and Spinach Salad with Goat Cheese and Grilled Fresh Figs double as light lunches. Helpful sidebars explain, for example, how not to overcook pork, but instructions on "How to Break Down a Duck" are confusing. Recipe titles read like advanced Tai Chi maneuvers: Acquacotta—Porcini Broth with Soft Polenta, Taleggio, and a Poached Egg... and truffle oil, if the authors hadn't run out of space. There are some exceptions to the elaborate rule, such as Roasted Tomato and Farro Soup, Oliver's Chicken Stew and Orzo in Chicken Broth with Many Greens and Asiago. The pasta chapter includes homemade pastas, and a pizza chapter with fairly simple recipes, but the book gets its mileage out of more elaborate dishes like Fried Rabbit in Hazelnut Crumbs with Peaches and Braised Oxtails with White Beans. In the end, the recipes are clearly written and certainly delectable. Illus. not seen by PW.

February 15, 2002
\deflang1033\pard\plain\f3\fs24 The home cook often falls victim to restaurant chefs whose cookbooks require long-simmered stocks and unusual or expensive ingredients. Jody Adams of Boston's Rialto Restaurant has produced a cookbook offering unique flavor combinations without impossible challenges. Adams' cooking relies on imaginative flavorings. Broccoli and cauliflower combine with garlic and curry for a vegetable dish anything but unassertive. Ravioli stuffed with whole poached eggs might seem beyond a home cook's competence, but Adams shows how to make them ahead to minimize last-minute cooking frenzy. Salmon with walnuts and dried cranberries dresses up what might ordinarily be a commonplace seafood entr\'e9e. Occasionally Adams asks too much, as in her recipe for Chicken cooked under a brick that uses four burners of a range, leaving no room for any accompaniments on top of a standard stove. Clearly not a craver of sweets, Adams appends just a few dessert recipes to her hefty selection of appetizers and main courses. (Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2002, American Library Association.)