Everyday Raw

March 31, 2008
In this ambitious, well-designed cookbook, New York chef and restaurateur Kenney relies on some fairly hefty assumptions: "By now, most of us realize that heating foods above 118 degrees does destroy valuable enzymes and nutrients." Whether or not one "realizes" the benefits, the raw-food-curious will find some intriguing recipes in this book. Juices are especially appealing; Mango Raspberry employs a sweet hit of vanilla, and Sweet Green Juice is a sprightly concoction of carrots, cucumbers, apples and herbs. More substantial recipes include a simple, tasty Cucumber-White Grape Gazpacho, a lighter take on the traditional tomato-based soup, and seasoned, dried mushroom caps called Portobello Steaks. But once dishes become more complicated, they also start to require specialized equipment, myriad substitutes and a lot of patience. Baked Macaroni and Cheese, for instance, is nothing of the sort-it's squash covered in a cashew sauce flavored with lemon juice and nutritional yeast; like most of the recipes here, it requires a Vita-Mix food processor and a dehydrator. Tomato Torta with Pesto and Macadamia Ricotta substitutes nuts for cheese, and Pad Thai uses jicama instead of vermicelli. These substitutions should be tempting to people who believe that nutritional philosophy trumps ease and taste; others will find cooking macaroni and cheese simpler and more satisfying with actual macaroni and cheese.

August 15, 2008
In this book, chef Kenney ("Raw Food Real World") aims to provide easy recipes for the preparation of raw vegan foods, which cannot be heated beyond 118 degrees and usually require some time to create. A raw food novice can marvel at the creation of a recipe for eggplant bacon and the (albeit time-consuming) simplicity of making homemade almond milk. There is a certain time commitment when choosing this diet; for example, many of the recipes require that food items be dehydrated or frozen overnight or for many hours in order to gain the desired flavor and consistency. The book pretty much sticks to contemporary fusion cuisine, with a little bit of Asian, Mexican, and Italian flavors showing up within each section. Particularly innovative and delicious are the dessert and ice cream recipes. Generally, Kenney's choices will appeal to both the non-raw-food-eating cook and the raw-food devotee alike with his healthful and tempting recipes. Recommended for public libraries with special diet cookbook sections.Claire Schaper, Morgantown, WV

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