Amuse-Bouche

September 9, 2002
Breaking new ground in a previously untackled area of cuisine, the executive chef of TRU restaurant in Chicago and coauthor with Gale Gand of Just a Bite, Tramonto (who also coauthored Butter, Flour, Sugar, Eggs), has paired up with Goodbody to explore the world of Amuse-Bouche, "Little bites of food to amuse the mouth, invigorate the palate, whet the appetite." To this end, the author has produced recipes designed to create a mouthful of delight, whether a spoonful of salad, an espresso cup of soup or a scoop of savory sorbet. Giving the book greater scope, Tramonto suggests that the dishes, such as the simple, flavorful Warm Onion Tart with Thyme, can be used as hors d'oeuvre, "so elusive is the line between." Many of the portions can be expanded or multiplied to form starters or a light main course. Other recipes given a new look are bean salad, which with the addition of curry oil becomes Curried Three Bean Salad, and Potato Salad, which is spiced with cayenne pepper. The recipes require a variety of skill levels and time, although there are always several suitable for all occasions and aptitudes. (Oct.)Forecast:Despite the confusion that this might be just another hors d'oeuvre book, Tramonto's reputation and the striking cover and illustrations give this book a modern, eye-catching appearance guaranteed to leap out from table displays and shelves.

September 15, 2002
An amuse-bouche is a special little tidbit served as a treat at the beginning of the meal in many upscale restaurants, and Tramonto, chef of Chicago's acclaimed Tru, is a master of the form. Instead of just one, he presents four amuses, or sometimes even more, to each guest. He finds these little bites a perfect way to experiment with flavors and ingredients-and to have fun doing so (he describes the food at Tru as "fine dining with a sense of humor"). But sophisticated as his amuses are, they translate surprisingly well to the home kitchen. Because they are prepared on such a small scale and often include only a few ingredients, the better to highlight individual flavors, preparation of many of them, such as Watermelon Cube with Aged Balsamic, is not the lengthy process typical of most chefs' recipes. Not that there aren't more complicated recipes, too, such as Seared Cumin-Crusted Squab with Horseradish Gastrique, but the recipe instructions are clearly written and accessible. Tramonto also points out that these little bites are a great way for home cooks to serve an ingredient that would otherwise be prohibitively expensive (as in Warm Mini Foie Gras Club Sandwiches) or to taste an unfamiliar, "exotic" ingredient. For most collections.

Copyright 2002 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.