French Classics Made Easy

May 2, 2011
This author took cooking classes with James Beard, served as the U.S. representative for Le Cordon Bleu from 1969 till 1985, and is the founder and president of the nonprofit Careers Through Culinary Arts Program. In short, he knows what he's doing (and how to teach others to do it, too), and that's reflected in this book's 250 recipes for accessible versions of French classics, including slow-scrambled eggs with truffles, mousseline-stuffed trout, cassoulet, beef Burgundy, and duck à l'orange. Though the prose feels a tad condescending and out of touch, it does include helpful instruction on everything from washing and storing salad greens to solving common soufflé problems. Perhaps most valuable of all is the section on the sauces (velouté, bechamel, beurre blanc, demiglace, and more) that make French cooking what it is. Anyone who's been schooled mainly in the 30-minute meals tradition would benefit from the education this book offers.

Starred review from July 15, 2011

Traditional French cooking reimagined for the contemporary American kitchen. 

The title of Grausman's (At Home With French Cooking, 1988) latest might strike readers as a bit of an oxymoron—"easy" is a relative term when it comes to mastering French culinary techniques. Yet the author has tackled this often intimidating cuisine and made it much more accessible to the American cook. He draws upon his years as a teacher to understand where a novice cook's confusion might arise, and whisks those fears away with clear, step-by-step instructions. He shares time-saving tips and amends even the most sacred French recipes to make them more palatable to today's cooks. Grausman does not, however, compromise the integrity of the recipes. You still need fish heads for Bouillabaisse, and while he has cut back on certain health-compromising ingredients like salt, there's still plenty of cream and butter. The author takes technique seriously, and he provides numerous instructional asides and illustrations. Dessert is not an afterthought, but rather an 86-page section of tempting recipes, including pastries. Complex without being complicated, there are plenty of meals presented that lend themselves to quick yet elegant dinners. The Chicken with Riesling is flavorful, rich and creamy, and easy enough to prepare on a busy weeknight. And then there's the soufflé. With Grausman as a guide, anyone can produce this lighter-than-air treat. And yes, it cooks in just 10 minutes.

Classic French cuisine for everyone, from beginners to professionals.

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