Confessions of a French Baker

October 10, 2005
This petit but useful compendium contains centuries-old Provençal lessons in bread making as relayed to Francophile foodie and memoirist Mayle (A Year in Provence
, etc.) by Auzet, an award-winning baker from Cavaillon, Provence. The collaboration between author and baker yields a mix of regional history, first-person essay and a portrait of a family boulangerie
through the generations. The modest Auzet boils down his expertise to a few secrets: among them are that the exact combined temperature of the water, flour and kitchen air should be 56°C, and that a good kitchen scale is imperative. Traditional recipes for baguettes, batards
and boules
are simple, though, as with any bread made by hand, quite time consuming. To keep second-guessing to a minimum, Auzet offers helpful tips for testing both the dough's gluten and the bread's doneness. He also explains how these basic formulas can be amped up with a number of French flavors: olives, thyme, saffron, apricots, nuts and garlic. Additional chapters concern making breads with wine, olive oil and sweet yeast. For true authenticity, a suggested list of wine pairing is included at the end. Throughout, Auzet's suggestions are spot-on, making his "confessions" an invaluable contribution to aspiring boulangers
and bread-lovers.

October 1, 2005
Despite the title's implications, this tiny book offers no lurid expose. Rather, this is simply a guide to the technique and art of French bread production as practiced by one of France's premier bakers. Working out of the Provencal village of Cavaillon, baker Auzet won national honor for his skills when he produced a model of the Eiffel Tower made exclusively of baked bread dough. Author Mayle has written a brief introduction to Auzet's recipes, which include more than the classic baguette. Auzet produces sweet and savory breads, including thyme, olive, garlic, bacon, and Roquefort cheese exemplars. There is even a loaf that echoes the herbs and spices of Marseille's bouillabaisse. Recipes are very simple, and Auzet suggests a way to reproduce French flour in an American setting. A short chapter pairs Auzet's breads with some noted French wines. Mere words may not begin to encompass the technique and art involved in producing a perfect loaf of French bread, but Mayle and Auzet present an entree for the home breadsmith.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2005, American Library Association.)