Tasty

Starred review from November 10, 2014
In this fascinating blend of culinary history and the science of taste, freelance writer McQuaid observes that “everyone lives in his own flavor world,” and that taste is the most subjective of the senses. He smoothly and skillfully explains the layout of the neocortex and how flavor is perceived by the brain. He discusses the tongue and how its varied zones were once thought to correlate to sweet, salty, sour and bitter, imparting serious science with wildly rich prose. “Flavor is only the capstone of a vast, hidden system” that starts in the mouth with a “burst of deliciousness” and leads to “an infinite mesh of sensors furiously sending and receiving messages as the whole body marinates in the chemical flux of the world.” Readers will savor his explanations of the science behind umami, the savory taste identified in 2007, and the description of sweetness as “a delicious and powerful motivator” given sugar’s effect on the brain. McQuaid’s lucid explanations of neuroscientific research on dopamine lay the groundwork for a keen analysis of industrial food production and flavor manipulation while addressing the health issues of the modern diet. When he concludes that “the mystery at the heart of flavor has never been truly cracked,” he sets the stage for an eagerly anticipated second helping.

January 1, 2015

Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist McQuaid (Path of Destruction) offers up with gusto this fascinating and meticulously researched consideration of flavor and the sense of taste. His narrative draws from chemistry, psychology, genetics, evolutionary biology, geopolitics, human exploration, cultural history, and the art and science of food preparation--an array of disciplines appropriate to the surprising complexity of taste. This multidisciplinary approach enlivens and renders delightful--like a sample of some surprisingly delicious food--stories of the dangerous rise of refined sugar, the wonders of fermentation, the contrary human fascination with chili heat, the biology of bitterness, and the manifestation of disgust. McQuaid's narrative doesn't conclude so much as stop, fairly abruptly, at the end of a chapter on cutting-edge culinary science; but perhaps appropriately so as he notes that flavor continues to pose many mysteries to science. VERDICT This work is an appetizing and satisfying chronicle of what we know of taste, so far. An excellent (and relatively agenda-neutral) choice for those who enjoy Michael Pollan and Gary Paul Nabhan, it is recommended for professional and amateur culinarians, foodies, and all curious reader/eaters, as well as researchers and students across interested disciplines. [See Prepub Alert, 7/14/14.]--Janet Ingraham Dwyer, State Lib. of Ohio, Columbus

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