New German Cooking

Starred review from January 19, 2015
Coauthors and business partners Jeremy and Jessica Nolen, the couple behind Philadelphia’s Bauhaus Schmitz, address the culinary elephant in the room from the get-go: ask most people what they think about German food, and they’ll answer “sausage, schnitzel, and sauerkraut,” followed by the adjectives heavy, fatty, and meat-obsessed. Over the course of the book’s 200-plus pages and 100-plus recipes, the duo do their best to refute that preconception (though, yes, there’s a fair amount of meat, mustard, and pickled items) with a winning collection of approachable recipes. This inspiring read includes a mouthwatering combination of the familiar (Bavarian pretzels, beer cheese soup, bratwurst, and apple strudel) with modern riffs such as green asparagus and aged-gouda dip; roasted parsnip salad with hazelnuts and blue cheese; and a simple chicken braised in riesling with onion, leeks, garlic, and green grapes. Those who have the culinary wherewithal to attempt cold-smoked venison carpaccio with pickled oyster mushrooms, or a roasted goose with pretzel-apple stuffing and Gewürztraminer glaze, are given the tools and straightforward directions to do so, but the recipes, for the most part, are easy to source and fairly simple to prepare. This is terrific update on an often-overlooked cuisine.

Starred review from March 15, 2015

Married chefs Jeremy and Jessica Nolen hope to increase the popularity of German foods with modern recipes for roasted goose, pork schnitzel, beer and cheese soup, and other dishes. Their first cookbook, written with freelance writer Drew Lazor, devotes plenty of attention to rich meat and game dishes (e.g., Nuremberg-style bratwurst, venison medallions with juniper-black pepper brandy sauce), and balances these with creative vegetable courses and baked goods. Novice home cooks can whip up easily most of these recipes, and if they're ready for a challenge, they can try the more advanced Bavarian pretzels, which get a quick dip in food-grade lye, and naturally fermented sauerkraut, which takes two to four weeks to develop its characteristic sourness. VERDICT Despite its traditional leanings, this German cookbook is refined and chic, with very clear instructions.

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