Slow Fires

September 15, 2015

Working in some of New York City's finest kitchens, chef Smillie fell in love with simple, flavorful cooking methods. Here, with journalist Greenwald, he has distilled everything he's learned about braising, roasting, and grilling into 52 menus suitable for intermediate to advanced home cooks. Most menus--each serving anywhere from two to 16 people--pair a hearty main course, such as salt-roasted bass with green grape smash, with a simple side dish, such as caramelized parsnips. Desserts and drinks aren't included, but it's easy to imagine simple accompaniments (perhaps fruit or cheese) for showstoppers such as four-peppercorn-crusted short ribs and thrice-roasted chicken with cutting-board vinaigrette. Smillie recommends that readers prepare these menus on weekends, when they have time for leisurely cooking. VERDICT Smillie's rustic Italian-inspired menus require advance planning, but they're outstanding and gorgeously photographed by Anderson, whose casually styled images recall those in Domenica Marchetti's The Glorious Vegetables of Italy.

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