Gjelina

January 1, 2016

Wildly popular California restaurant Gjelina specializes in rustic Mediterranean cuisine with particular emphasis on vegetables and grains. Here chef Lett and photographers Graydon and Herriott deliver a handsome cookbook that includes a photojournalistic introduction (think black-and-white staff photos juxtaposed with images of dead waterfowl and artfully arranged furniture) and recipes for condiments, pickles, pizzas, pastas, and more. Like Yotam Ottolenghi, Lett has a knack for elevating vegetables, often through two-part preparations, e.g., blanching then frying, or roasting then grilling. Salads, vegetables, and desserts (e.g., smoked trout salad with grapefruit and avocado; roasted yams with honey, espelette, and lime yogurt; strawberry-rhubarb polenta crisp) are generally doable, but most other dishes are laborious. VERDICT If you can't visit Gjelina in person, buying this cookbook is the next best option. Recommended for foodies and aspiring chefs.

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