Smoke and Pickles

Starred review from February 18, 2013
Lee’s debut cookbook is an inventive and exciting take on Southern food inspired by the chef’s Korean roots. Raised in Brooklyn, N.Y., Lee is the chef and owner of the restaurant 610 Magnolia in Louisville, Ky., (where he has lived since 2003). “All the lovely and resourceful traditions of the Southern landscape would propel me back to my grandmother’s spicy, garlicky foods,” explains the author. Recipes are combined with entertaining stories of Lee’s life and culinary journey. He begins with a chapter on rice and remoulade. Other whimsical chapters include Lamb & Whistles, Cows & Clover, Birds & Bluegrass, Seafood & Scrutiny (a reference to the chef’s run on the TV show Top Chef), and Pickles & Matrimony

April 15, 2013

Korean-American chef Lee, the three-time James Beard Award-nominated owner of 610 Magnolia in Louisville, KY, has appeared on Bravo's Top Chef and the Food Network's Iron Chef America. His collection of contemporary, complex Southern favorites features strong Asian influences; Darkly Braised Lamb Shoulder simmers in a mix of bourbon, sorghum, black bean paste, and chocolate, while Chicken-Fried Pork Steak gets breaded in crushed ramen noodles. Distinctive pickles, cocktails, sides, snacks, and desserts round out this meaty cookbook, which includes beautiful photographs and considered anecdotes. VERDICT Asian fusion cuisine is extremely popular right now, and that makes this a good choice for most collections. Best for experienced cooks.

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